(More specifically, Chinese wolfberry)
Reference: http://go-goji.com/default.aspx
Project Zhongning Goji
Left: Zhongning goji (L. barbarum); Right: chinese goji (L. chinense)
Zhongning goji is bigger in size. The pulp is also softer and sweeter. The dried chinese goji is harder and slightly bitter tasting.
I am now experimenting with Zhongning goji planting.
29 July 2011
One week old seedlings... 1cm tall.
05 August 2011
First true leaves...
16 August 2011
Transplanted into individual pots. Two seedlings per pot.
There are a couple of pointers that I have picked up thus far in my Goji planting experiment.
Germination rate. The germination rate is actually not bad. From each goji fruit, I can get in average 6~8 successful germination. This is what I feel is the best germination method.
- Soak the fruit overnight. Soaking the fruit overnight seems to give higher, more uniformed germination rate.
- Remove the seeds from the flesh and just buried them slightly in the germination bed. Water them in lightly.
- Goji is sun loving. Keep the seeds in partial shade (preferably morning sun). Moisten the soil every morning. Keep out from rain to avoid seeds from getting displaced.
- Once germinated with the first pair of leaves formed, cut back on watering. Water every other day, depending on the weather. Keep it under partial shade. Goji dislike damp soil.
By the second week, first true leaves will form. And by third week, you should get three sets of true leaves. The seedlings are ready for transplant. After transplant, keep in full shades for few days for the root shock to wear off. Then place the seedling back under partial shade.
At this stage, there are some signs of red spider mite infestation. I am keeping a close monitor on the seedlings and will administer pesticide if the infestation becomes serious.
Spider mite infestation normally becomes a problem for plants placed in a shielded place away from rain. A good regular spray of water will usually keep the spider mites under check. But the seedlings are still fragile in this case. By the time they are sufficiently strong, the seedlings will be out there under the full sun :)
p/s: By second or third week, if the goji seedlings have not gotten past the first true leaves, the soil is either too damp or there is insufficient sun. A quick fix is needed.
p.p/s: Going to give the transplanted seedlings their first organic booster feeding once they are established.
04 September 2011
The seedlings took one to three weeks to recover from transplant shock depending on the severity of root damage.
Newly transplanted seedlings from second batch that were sown two weeks after the first batch. The seedlings are the similar sized to seedlings from first batch.
During the second transplant operation I realised the Goji plant has a very deep rooting system. The "trunk" root will dig all the way down to the bottom of the pot and spread out into a maze of fine hair roots. It was extremely difficult to separate the tangled roots of multiple plants. In many cases, the fine hair roots were snapped. I think the second batch will take a while to recover from the transplant shock.
One valuable lesson is to start germination from individual pot/planter. The germination rate is quite high, so my guess it is sufficient to sow 3~4 seeds per pot and thin out to one strongest plant per pot later on. This way, transplant shock can be minimised as the entire root ball can be transplanted (compared to bare root transplant) and also at a later stage of the seedling growth, perhaps direct into the field if the initial germination pot is sufficiently big for growth beyond initial seedling growth.
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